Under the Arctic Sky: Tromso, Norway

The last stop in our Northern Lights itinerary was Tromsø, a major hub above the Arctic Circle. The fact that we were down for three nights in Tromso (instead of two like in Senja and Lofoten) meant getting an extra day for going downtown, doing some last-minute shopping and treating ourselves to a sumptuous dinner to commemorate our last evening in Norway.

Sometimes referred to as the “Gateway to the Arctic.”, Tromsø is famed not only for the Northern lights but offers a wide range of inter excursions like dog sledding, reindeer feeding and ice kayaking. The nature is so close to the city centre that you can admire the Arctic landscape from Tromsø’s main street, which also happens to have the highest collection of historical wooden houses in Northern Norway, with the oldest house dating back to 1789.

The iconic 1965 Arctic Cathedral in Tromsø, with its distinctive peaked roof and majestic stained-glass windows. – Photo by NG

Our homestay was up in the mountains of Nordkjosbotn – about an hour’s drive from the city centre. Like Senja, our vehicle was not able to turn off and drive up to the house as the entire compound was covered in thick snow.

We waited inside the minivan for a further 45 minutes for our host family to come over and suggest an alternative way in. The snow was falling faster than the time it would take to clear with a shovel. In the end, we parked our vehicle just off the main road and walked across the deep blanket of snow with luggage and bags in tow.

The homestay up in the mountains

That very same evening, we went to the backyard and were delighted to catch another aurora sighting. How lucky that we got a good glimpse of the Northern Lights in all three towns that we visited!

I decided to walk to the front of the house for a change in scenery. Just as I was nearing the main road, I lost my balance and fell face down on the snow. Although unhurt, my hands were frozen stiff and I could not feel them. After extricating myself from the ice and stumbling back to the house, I headed straight for the kitchen to run my fingers under the hot tap. After that little mishap, I was really in no mood to venture outdoors again for the rest of the evening.

The following morning, we dropped by at the Tromsø Tourist Information Centre in town to book tickets for the Half-day Reindeer Sledding and Feeding Tour for three of my travel mates. The two of us who were not going for the tour planned to take a walk around the city to check out some of its cultural and architectural highlights as well as do some shopping for souvenirs and gifts.

After confirming the tour for the following morning, we drove out of the city centre to the countryside to have a look at some of Tromsø’s natural attractions. This time, we were confined to enjoying the views from inside the minivan as the snowfall outside was heavy. After about two hours of rounding, we decided to call it a day and return to the warm comfort of our homestay. As luck would have it, we got caught in a blizzard!

With darkness looming over and the storm beating hard against the windscreen of our vehicle, visibility became so bad that we had to turn off from the main route and take shelter in a petrol station. Getting caught in a snowstorm was the first time for the five of us so we were all pretty shaken from the experience. After waiting inside the van for a good thirty minutes, our aurora hunter and driver, Z, announced that he was sufficiently composed to continue the drive back to our homestay in Nordkjosbotn.

We were all looking forward to spending a free-and-easy day in town on our third and last day in Tromso. That was when Z dropped his bombshell! He told us that there was really no point for the two of us to hitch a ride to the city with the others as the shops would not be open that early. Z went on to say that he did not intend to remain in the city until the tour was over, but come straight back home after dropping off my travel mates at the tour pick-up point. Despite our assertions that we were perfectly okay to wander around the city by ourselves, Z kept insisting that it would be much better to ride to town when he went to fetch the others so that everyone could see a bit of the city after that.

Personally, I was not sold on Z’s rationale, considering the bad weather conditions and the limited daylight hours at our disposal. However, as it was my last day in Noway, I thought it best not to be difficult so I reluctantly relented and agreed to stay behind.

As the two of us were now confined in the homestay until noontime, we decided to go outdoors and explore the neighbourhood. It turned out that we were staying in a very scenic area surrounded by majestic, snow-covered mountains. Very few cars passed by and we had the entire road to ourselves most of the time.

Snow plow truck

We were back by 10:30am, thinking that Z should have arrived home by then but no, he had not come back. An hour later, we received a call from him to say that it was snowing heavily in the city and he thought it best to remain in the city and wait for the others to come back from their tour!

We left for Tromsø Airport very early the next morning to catch our flight to Oslo. Two of my travel mates were bound for home while three of us extended our visit to Copenhagen.

Moonrise at Nordkjosbotn

Norway’s scenery is incredible! The mountains and fjords are simply magical, as are the tranquil silence and deep, open spaces from the frozen lakes and beaches. The great thing about Norway is the sense of expectation and excitement you get in the moment. There are little adventures to experience and new things to try out. Whatever season you are in, this country is simply amazing!

The YouTube video below features the Northern Lights dancing to Coldplay’s hit song, “Fix You” .

With almost all borders around the world being closed due to the Covid-19 pandemic, I feel grateful and blessed that I made it safely to Norway and back just before the lockdown.

A Bicycle Ride On Ninh Binh’s Hidden Lanes

Ninh Binh is a rural and peaceful province in the south of Hanoi. A mere 2.5- to 3-hour ride from Hanoi via road or rail, Ninh Binh is bestowed with natural landscapes of karst mountains, hidden caves, grottoes & evergreen rain forests.

A bicycle ride on the relatively flat, unpaved lanes of this village gave me a snapshot of the breath-taking beauty that Ninh Binh’s countryside had to offer.

Whether it’s the lotus-filled ponds, lakes, rice fields or houses standing under the shade of towering limestone mountains, there is so much to see in this truly scenic part of Vietnam.

Many resorts and homestays found here offer uninterrupted views of the mountains and lakes, with stilts and bamboo platforms built above the water so that you can get closer and immerse yourself in Ninh Binh’s stunning scenery.

Scenic Train Ride on the Ikawa Line

The 25.5 kilometre-long Ikawa Line runs between Senzu Station and Ikawa Station passing through 13 stations, 61 tunnels and 51 bridges. Although it’s not as well-publicised as its SL counterpart, the scenery through the forested mountain is nothing short of stunning. Embarking on this breathtaking hour and fifty-minute journey more than made up for the disappointment of missing the Oigawa SL ride the day earlier.

The red-coloured Ikawa Line begins its northwards ascent along the Oi River through an isolated mountain area with no cities or towns. Most of the passengers are either tourists visiting one of the hot springs resorts along the line, or mountaineers and hikers heading for the peaks of the Southern Alps National Park.

There were so few passengers that we had the last carriage all to ourselves.

The rivers and mountains are the highlights of this train ride. As we chugged slowly inwards and uphill, the scenery got better and better. The water in the river changed from grey to blue-green, as it made its way through a series of rapids and ravines. From the cliff sides, waterfalls cascaded down into the valley. At some points during the bridge crossings, the railway tracks were carved so close to the edge that we were able to look directly at the water below, as if the train was making its way across a tightrope.

Onsen town seen from the train

Between Aputo Ichishiro Station and the Nahashima Dam, the slope is so steep that the train needs an additional boost make its way up. A rare Abt rack system has been installed for this purpose. An electric locomotive is connected to the back of the train, using a cog system that locks into a racked middle rail to provide that extra push up a 9% gradient across a 1.5 km section of the line.

Aputo Ichishiro Station

The view at Aputo Ichishiro Station where the electric locomotive connects with the train for that extra push.

On reaching the top, the extra locomotive decoupled and we were on our own again.

Nagashima Dam

Points along the river are dammed with concrete walls to control the flow of water.

A pop-up Post Office at Oku-Oi Kojo Station

Chubu Electric Power Museum

At an altitude of 636 metres (2,087 ft), Ikawa Station is the highest railway station in Shizuoka Prefecture. We had half an hour to grab a bite while the train “rested” for the journey back to Senzu Station. By this time, we were all famished as we had skipped lunch in favour of the Oigawa-Ikawa train ride. However, food options were limited at Ikawa Station. There was a small food stall in the station itself and another one at the bottom of a narrow stairway behind the station. We bought some oden (a one-pot winter dish made up of peeled whole boiled eggs, carrots, daikon radish, fish cakes and potatoes simmered in a soy broth) and enjoyed it outdoors in the fresh mountain air and cool forest surrounds.

At Senzu, we did a quick tour of the small town and had dinner in a typical Japanese family-run restaurant before boarding another train for Kanaya Station.

 

Journey to the Cape Peninsula

The Cape Peninsula with all of its stunning scenery and rich biodiversity is a feast for the senses. The weather was kind and it was a beautiful clear morning when we journeyed along the scenic Atlantic seaboard coastal road en route to Hout Bay. The road meandered out of Sea Point and into Clifton, which is home to real estate that only the super-rich can afford. Next to Clifton is the similarly affluent suburb of Camps Bay, popular with locals and international tourists for its long beach and pumping night life. This is THE place to strut your stuff and be seen. To my right, a never-ending stretch of white sand, sheltered from the south-easterly wind and very popular among sun-worshippers.

The Twelve Apostles on the Atlantic Coastal Road

The coach pulled up at an open car park for a photo opportunity of the Twelve Apostles mountain range. The Twelve Apostles are a group of small mountain peaks that run along the coast of Capetown and are part of the national park that runs from Table Mountain to Cape Point. The formidable Twelve Apostles rise above the road on one side, while steep cliffs and unusual rocks formations drop into the seemingly endless Atlantic Ocean on the other.

Hout Bay and Boat Cruise to Duiker (Seal) Island 

We arrived at Hout Bay, a quaint fishing village which sits halfway between Cape Town and Cape Point. This once-fishing community is now a popular residential area nestled by mountains to the North, East and West and the ocean to the South. This village still carries the charm of a bygone era with many local craft markets and antique shops along the waterfront.

Hout Bay is well-known as the port of departure for scenic day trips to Seal Island.

The boat ride to Seal Island entails circling round The Sentinel to the other side.

Located 6 kilometres out to sea from Hout Bay, Seal Island is home to well over 60,000 Cape fur seals and 24 different bird species. Seals are the favourite menu for the Great White sharks that circle this area. The seals are well aware that they are the choice meal for sharks and enter the ocean with some degree of caution.

The whole island is an ever-changing scene of shades of brown bodies stretching and rolling lazily on the rocks. The seals squabble, bawl, bellow and snort at one another. The larger males compete for dominance while other seals nonchalantly slide off into the cold waters of the Atlantic.

We could only view the seals from the boat. This is not the kind of island where you can disembark. There is no beach, soil or vegetation at Seal Island. The whole place is rocky and slippery.

Groot Constantia Winery 

Dating back to 1685, Groot Constantia is the oldest wine estate in South Africa. It is particularly well-known for its legendary dessert wines (Constantia Wyn), which have been enjoyed by aristocracy and royalty, from Bismarck to Frederick the Great of Prussia, King Louis Phillip of France and Napoleon. The luscious dessert wines have also been mentioned by Charles Dickens and Jane Austen in their books.

We were given a 45-minute guided tour of the wine cellar and watched the wine production process in action. We then made our way to the meeting room, walking past some beautiful works of art on the walls. The staff explained the background of the wines and suggested different blends and vintages that go well with food. During the talk, each of us got to sample the award-winning vintages he was referring to.

From left: Gouverneurs Reserve 2013, Pinotage 2015, Merlot 2013, Chardonnay 2015 and the famous Sauvignon Blanc 2016

The Manor House, which is a good example of Cape Dutch architecture, provides an insight into the life of a successful Cape farmer as well as the lives of rural slaves who worked in the wine estate. Other exhibits include furniture, paintings, textiles, ceramics, brass and copperware from the 18th and 19th centuries.

In the historic core of Groot Constantia Wine Estate stands Jonkershuis Constantia Restaurant. It is spacious and flexible enough to cater for big group functions like weddings, parties and conferences as well as for smaller occasions like family-style lunches, small group outings and picnics on its front lawns.

Sweeping views across the vineyards and beyond.

Fish Hoek Village

The wine-tasting and activities in the morning had whetted our appetites and all of us looked forward to having lunch at Fish Hoek.

The village of Fish Hoek sits on a pretty bay with a lovely beach and colourful Victorian bathing boxes that add a festive flavour to the place. This vibrant town is surrounded by rugged mountains and lays claim to one of the safest swimming beaches in Cape Town. It is no wonder that Fish Hoek is popular with wind surfers, lifesavers and hobie cat enthusiasts.

The restaurant where we had lunch, The Galley, is situated right on the beach with fresh breezes and panoramic views of the waves and sand. Customers can choose to dine in or outdoors.

For starters, we were served with Pumpkin Soup with Garlic Bread, followed by the main made up of Lobster served on a bed of Butter Rice, accompanied with Fish Fingers on Skewers, Salad and Chips. We rounded off the meal with ice-cream – a perfect dessert for a sweltering afternoon.

Boulders Beach, Simon’s Town 

With all that heavy meal weighing inside my stomach, I was looking forward to getting a bit of a shut-eye inside the coach before we arrived at the next stop. Well, that didn’t happen. Seven minutes into the journey, the coach pulled up to the side of the road in Simon’s Town. We were asked to make our way down a somewhat steep side lane leading to Boulders Beach for the African (Jackass) penguins to have a closer look at us.

Amazing flowers lining the path to Boulders.

Every year over 60,000 visitors flock to Simon’s Town to watch and photograph the penguins in their natural habitat. Boulders Beach remains the only place in the world where one can get up close to African penguins. There are broad, wooden boardwalks cutting across the beaches for both parties to get a good look at each other.

African Penguin standing directly under me on the boardwalk.

Cape Point 

Cape Point lies 1.2km east of Cape of Good Hope and is the most south-western corner of the African continent where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet. Cape Point is in the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve and is part of the Cape Floral Region, a World Heritage Site. This narrow stretch of land, dotted with beautiful valleys, bays and beaches, contains a stunning array of animal and plant species.

South Africa’s most powerful lighthouse can be found here. Completed in 1859, it still stands at 238 metres above sea-level on the highest section of the peak and is now used as the central monitoring point for all lighthouses on the coast of South Africa.

In order to get to the lighthouse, visitors can either make an uphill walk from the car park to the lighthouse or take The Flying Dutchman Funicular. This funicular takes its name from the local legend of the Flying Dutchman ghost ship and is believed to be the only commercial funicular of its type in Africa. A 3-minute ride in this wheelchair-accessible Flying Dutchman Funicular transfers visitors from the lower station at 127 metres above sea-level, to the upper station to see the lighthouse and panoramic views of the ocean.

The intermingling of currents from the Atlantic and Indian Oceans help to create the micro-climate of Cape Town and its surroundings. Contrary to popular belief, the meeting of both currents does not result in any obvious visual effect, so there’s no “line” in the ocean where the sea changes colour or looks different. There are, however, rough seas, dangerous swells, tides and localised currents around the Point and in the adjacent waters. There has been countless maritime disasters in the centuries since ships first sailed here.

A bird’s-eye view of the strong waves directly beneath me.

 

Cape of Good Hope

About 1.2 kilometres west of Cape Point is The Cape of Good Hope, a rocky promontory at the southern end of the Cape Peninsula. The Cape of Good Hope is a haven for historians, nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts offering scenic trails, hiking, biking, swimming in tidal pools, surfing, fishing, angling, bird, whale and wildlife watching.

The fading rays over Table Mountain marked the end of an exciting and memorable day at the Cape Peninsula. As the coach cautiously made its way out of the national park, I looked out of the window at the darkening sky and hoped fervently that I might one day get to see this all over again.

Footnote: As I was preparing the final edits to this post, I was shocked and saddened to receive news that our Tour Leader to South Africa, Ms E.M. Law, passed away on Sunday December 4, 2016. It was just last month that I dropped by the tour agency to say “hello” and reminisce on some highlights of the trip. She had promised to keep me updated on a small-group tour to Botswana, Tanzania and Kenya planned for next year. I just can’t believe she’s gone!

Twenty-Four Hours in Mauritius

In mid-July of this year, I received a call from a close aunt, asking if I would like to go to South Africa with her. The local tour agency was offering a promotional package with a fully-sponsored two-night stopover in Mauritius thrown in. Although I was a bit hesitant at first, it struck me that I might not ever get another opportunity to visit South Africa…so I said, “Yes!”

We flew Air Mauritius, of course. Why else would the airline want to fully sponsor your accommodation, meals including a day tour of Mauritius if they are not hoping that you will like the place so much that you will return there one day? It was my first time with Air Mauritius and I really didn’t know what to expect. The return flight turned out to be better than expected. It seemed like the twenty-five of us in the group were fed non-stop inside the plane. The only downside was the choice of movies which was very limited. I will always remember Air Mauritius for its landing. They were the best landings I have experienced for any plane. Hats off to the pilots!

Mauritius is a volcanic island of lagoons and palm-fringed beaches with coral reefs surrounding most of the coastline. It sits in the Indian Ocean, off the south-east coast of the African continent. Its 1.2 million mixed population comprises Hindus, Creoles, Muslims, Chinese and Europeans. Most Mauritians are bilingual and while English is the official language, French and Creole are widely spoken.

Various view points offer great views of the western fringes of Mauritius.

On arrival at Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport (what a mouthful), our group was greeted by an Air Mauritius representative, who spoke only Mandarin and not a word of English. Good for her, I guess. She was spared from having to answer the many curious questions I tend to ask when visiting a new country.

Chamarel Waterfall

After buffet breakfast at 6:30am the next day, we set off for Chamarel that is known for its natural attractions. We drove along the coastal roads, passing fishing villages and the famous salt pans of Tamarin. I was disappointed that the coach did not stop for us to get a closer look at the salt pans. Since salt is found in virtually every household, it would have been interesting (for me, at least) to see how salt is derived from sea water pumped into large, shallow pans and left to evaporate before being harvested and sent for refining.

Our first stop was at Chamarel Waterfall, the highest waterfall in Mauritius at a height of 100 metres. There are two view points to see the waterfall. The first one is just off the carpark area. The second viewpoint is found higher up, requiring a climb up a stairway to view the waterfall from a different angle as it plunges into the pool below.

Chamarel Waterfall from the second viewing platform

Seven-Coloured Earth of Chamarel

A short drive from the waterfall is The Seven-Coloured Earth, a natural phenomenon which is unique to Mauritius. It is a relatively small area of sand dunes made up of seven distinct colours – red, brown, violet, green, blue, purple and yellow. These colours are not that apparent from afar. In fact, as you approach the sand dunes, your eyes might deceive you into thinking that you are looking at hills with shadows of different shades. However, upon getting closer, you soon realise that the colours are real and the shadows an illusion.

The bizarre dunes were created by volcanic rocks which cooled at different temperatures and became crushed into sand which then settled into different compositions bearing different colours. Interestingly, the colours do not erode during torrential downpours and changes in the climate.

What is even more incredible is if the coloured sand were mixed together, they’ll eventually settle into separate layers!

The dunes are protected by wooden fencing and visitors can view the coloured earth from observation outposts along the fence.

Black River Gorge

The Black River Gorge National Park offers panoramic views of the island, including mountains, vistas, gorges, waterfalls and rivers. Stretching over 6574 hectares of land, there are lots of hiking trails to view the forests and wildlife. It would have been nice to spend more time here and wander around a bit, but that did not happen because we were on a tight itinerary.

Sweeping vistas at Black River Gorge

Grand Bassin Sacred Lake (Ganga Talao)

Grand Bassin or Ganga Talao is a sacred lake resting high up in the mountains at 1800 feet above sea level. This natural crater lake is one of the most important Hindu pilgrimage sites outside of India. Every year, more than 400.000 Hindus make the pilgrimage to Ganga Talao to pay homage to their gods. There is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, along with little shrines and colourful statues around its shores. You can’t miss the giant statue of Shiva marking the entrance. At 108-feet, it is the highest statue in Mauritius.

Grand Bassin with the statue of Shiva towering majestically at the entrance of the sacred crater lake

According to a legend this crater lake is connected with India’s holy River Ganges. Lord Shiva (Transformer and Destroyer) took his wife, Parvati, around the world in a flying ship. He wanted to show Parvati the most beautiful places on earth, so they stopped in Mauritius. Throughout the journey, Shiva was carrying the River Ganges on his head to prevent the earth from flooding. However, when they were about to land in Mauritius, Shiva accidentally spilled some water. Drops of it flowed into the crater – making Ganga Talao what it is today!

Le Bois Chéri Restaurant, Saint Aubin

After Ganga Talao, we made a 20-minute coach ride to the famous Bois Chéri tea plantation for lunch. Le Bois Chéri Restaurant is a charming building that sits on a hilltop surrounded by beautifully maintained grounds overlooking a man-made lake.

The Mauritian menu was imaginative, using tea leaves in many dishes, thereby adding a fresh twist to the elegant dining experience. The home-made rolls served with butter and four different types of custom dippings made this a meal that I will remember for a long time. We concluded lunch with a tea tasting session of 8 different types of Bois Chéri tea.

The Company’s tea factory is down the road from the restaurant, and it even has its own tea museum!

Mint Tea

Bois Cherie’s Tea Sorbet

Chicken in vanilla with rice and lentils

Troux aux Cerfs Volcano

After lunch, we made our way towards the famous Trou aux Cerfs Volcano in the town of Curepipe. Some geologists believe that the island of Mauritius was formed by lava spewing out from this volcano, so you can imagine how I was really looking forward to seeing this extinct volcano measuring 300 meters in diameter,  605 meters high and 80 meters deep. 

Well, I was disappointed. The site was covered with overgrown bushes and trees such that the crater was hardly visible. What remained resembled more of a little pond, so badly silted and clogged up that it hardly had any water. Suffice to say that it just wasn’t worth the hour-long travel just to see this poorly maintained, vegetation-filled crater.

Fortunately, the surrounding landscape around the volcano offered some consolation. It gives a panoramic view of Curepipe town and the southern part of Mauritius. The scenery stretches for quite a distance, allowing you to see several towns, villages, farms and the majestic craggy mountain peaks jutting out of the landscape.

Wildflowers seen around the crater site

Fruit trees seen along the road to the volcano.

Wherever you may be in Mauritius, the mountains are not far away.

Aanari Resort and Spa

We put up at the Aanari Resort and Spa for the 2 nights we were in Mauritius. A minutes’ walk from Flic en Flac beach, this island-style resort with wood accents is in a two-wing complex ideally located in the village of Flic en Flac. There is a huge supermarket in the basement of the resort complex, with the police station and beach being right opposite the building. This is quite a happening place with restaurants, bars, clubs, bank, money changer, internet cafe, post office, clinics, pharmacy, laundry services, shops and boutiques within walking distance from the resort.

Landscaped gardens

We were fortunate to get a corner room at the upper most level of the resort which also houses the gym, swimming pool and open spa. The rooms were slightly dated but clean and comfortable. A slight glitch took place almost immediately after we entered our room. The entire wing to which my group was assigned experienced a power blackout. Most of us had not even begun to unpack. Being new and unfamiliar with the place, all we could do was to sit in the darkness and wait for the power supply to come back. Some of us took this chance to get better acquainted with our fellow travellers standing outside the darkened corridor, while others took the opportunity to peep into other people’s rooms to compare whose room was bigger (and better)! Thankfully, this inconvenience lasted for about 25 minutes before power supply was fully restored.

Getting from the lift to my room requires walking past a pretty, landscaped rooftop garden which offers sweeping views of Flic en Flac town and the areas beyond.

The meals served at Aanari were excellent. I enjoyed savouring the seafood and meat prepared in Mauritian style. The dining tables were set up in a lush, open terrace garden, complete with a sea view and live music entertainment in the evenings at the open lobby bar.

Taking in the breeze and sea waves while dining

Landscaped outdoor dining area

In Sight Johor: The Sungai Johor Link Bridge

Three weeks ago, J and I made a trip to a town called Kota Tinggi to hand a pair of customised 2017 desk calendars to a food stall operator. This friendly old man had sportingly agreed to pose for some portrait shots during our last trip there. Needless to say, he was thrilled to see his photo on print and started to show the calendar to his customers.

After a quick meal of char siew and chicken rice at his stall (incidentally our drinks were complimentary), we proceeded to drive around a bit to explore the surrounding area. There was really not much to see along the trunk road except rows and rows of oil palm trees. By and by, we came to a handwritten sign pointing in the direction of a rumah rakit (raft house). We hesitated. Checking out the place meant doing a 7-kilometre drive inside a vast oil palm estate. Deep, dark, deserted – pretty scary, on the whole. After some deliberation, however, we decided to venture into the plantation. After all, no pain no gain, right?

There were some pretty anxious moments as the car made its way deeper into the thick, undulating forest. As the minutes ticked by, we became increasingly doubtful about where the road was leading us. The whole place was so remote that internet reception became erratic. The quiet, winding road seemed never-ending and we began to wonder if the sign seen earlier was out-of-date. To make matters worse, the petrol gauge showed that we were down to one bar. Earlier on, we had stopped by the only petrol kiosk at Teluk Sengat to fill up but guess what? All petrol had been sold out! A local resident told us that the next available kiosk could only be found on the opposite side, requiring a 26-minute drive to get there. As we couldn’t be sure about getting to top up even in the next town, we decided to continue exploring with the optimistic hope that there would be sufficient petrol to last until we reached home.

We drove uphill along the meandering road until we came to a slope cutting through an expressway tunnel. We found ourselves inside another oil palm estate but on the opposite side of the highway. I began to understand the actual meaning of the phrase, ‘So near and yet so far‘. Civilisation was right in front of us but the car could not get across as there was a shallow ditch and fence separating the estate road and the highway. By then it was already too late to turn back. We pressed further up until we were about to reach the highest point of the hinterland.

It was during that moment of approach when the Johor Bridge revealed itself, rising out from the lush green valley and river below. Woo hoo!  🙂 🙂

Did we make it to the raft houses on the river? Yes, we did, walking around the jetty area before hurrying back up to our newly-discovered spot to catch a glimpse of the sunset.

It would have been ideal to get a shot of the sun going down behind the bridge but that didn’t happen. From where we were standing, the bridge was a few degrees off from the sun.

All in all, it was a successful day trip. Who would have known that such a pretty view can be found within the deep recesses of a dull oil palm plantation? And now that I know that the sign did not lie after all, I hope to visit Kampung Tanjung Buai again and spend a night in a raft house.

 

Cruising Along Katherine Gorge, Nitmiluk National Park

Just a 70-minute drive away from Edith Falls is one of Australia’s most spectacular outback regions – Katherine Gorge or as the local indigenous Jawoyn people call it – Nitmiluk National Park.

Frankly, I had envisioned the gorge to be something like Maguk (Barramundi Gorge) where the hike is long and strenuous across most parts. My fears, however, proved unfounded. You can’t just walk in and out of Katherine Gorge. You either take a cruise or canoe.

All tours in the region are operated by Nitmiluk Tours that offers 2-hour and half-day safari gorge cruises, canoeing, hiking, helicopter rides and accommodation within the National Park. You can buy your tickets at the Nitmiluk Visitor Centre located at the entrance to the jetty, and then make your way down the ramp and hop into a boat or canoe.

Nitmiluk Gorge is made up of 13 separate waterways that wind along a 12 kilometres stretch of ancient rock with heights extending to more than 70 metres. Sculpted from sandstone over 20 million years ago by the Katherine River, it is open all year round, and features some of the most stunning gorge scenery in Northern Territory – raging waterfalls, rocks and boulders, breathtaking cliff views of Jawoyn country, pockets of rainforest along streams, water holes, bushland and a myriad of lizards, insects, birds including freshwater crocodiles!

These thirteen gorges are actually sections of one massive gorge that become separated by rock bars and boulders when the water level drops during the dry season. Conversely, when the water level rises during the rainy season, rivers, rapids and waterfalls develop and flow down the escarpment. Therefore, accessibility into the upper reaches of the gorge by boat and canoe depends very much on the water level.

The cruise I went in took me as far as the Second Gorge. The guide gave a good account of the local Jawoyn culture, the make up of the gorge, and some of the plants and wildlife that inhabit the area. It was not long before we came across a freshwater crocodile camouflaged underneath a rock along the bank.

Can you spot the croc?

At reaching the end of the First Gorge, we had to get off the boat and make a 400-metre walk across rocky terrain before getting into another boat that would take us to the Second Gorge.

This crossover with its uneven surfaces can become quite tricky. Those with restricted mobility do not need to hike all the way to the Second Gorge. There are benches and rocks at the crossover to sit down and take in the views while waiting for the rest to return.

Here are some views that opened up as we made our way to the Second Gorge.

Making our way down the steps to the Second Gorge.

The Second Gorge is even more stunning than the first one. Every turn of the winding river provides another visual masterpiece of near vertical bedrock plunging straight down into the blue-green waters of the expansive Nitmiluk Gorge. 

I felt a sense of deja vu when cruising along the Second Gorge. The place looked strangely familiar and I couldn’t recall where I had seen a similar scenery. And then it struck me! I was cruising along the same route that was used in the filming of the Australian horror crocodile movie, “Rogue”.

Rogue (2007) is about an idyllic wildlife cruise that disintegrates into terror when a party of tourists are stalked by a massive man-eating crocodile. The movie was shot in Yellow Water at Kakadu National Park, with additional scenes in Nitmiluk Gorge. You can watch the trailer here.

All too soon, two hours seemed to whiz by. It would have been very nice to have been able to stay back for the sunset. Sadly, time did not permit. We were soon back inside the coach, making a stop at Emerald Springs for dinner, before embarking on the last leg of the long journey back to Darwin.

A last look at Nitmiluk National Park.

Jiuzhaigou: Beauty in Blue

If there were a magical place on earth, it would have to be Jiuzhaigou. The scenery is breathtaking with its lakes, spectacular waterfalls, lush forests, towering mountains and unique wildlife. The hues and shapes are always changing, coming together to make this landscape a masterpiece of nature.

Jiuzhaigou consists of 3 main valleys in the shape of a “Y”. All 108 lakes here are linked to each other through waterfalls, lakes and rivers. All scenic points are accessible by roads, wooden boardwalks and small pavilions. The boardwalks are built to preserve and maintain the natural look of the landscape for the many visitors, tourists and buses that throng the Jiuzhai National Park throughout the year.

Multi-Coloured Lakes and Mirror-Like Ponds

The Jiuzhai Valley is best-known feature is its dozens of stunning blue, green and turquoise-coloured lakes. The water is so clear that the bottom is often visible even in very deep water. The lakes vary in colour and aspect according to their depths, residues and surroundings. The mirror-like reflections from the lakes make it quite difficult to distinguish the line between land and water! After looking at these unique waterscapes, I felt that it was well worth the long journey and lack of sleep from the previous day.

Cuscading Waterfalls

Plant Life

Getting Around

No private vehicles – not even bicycles, are allowed inside the park. Buying a bus pass gives you access to an efficient hop-on hop-off bus transport system inside the park. A second option to view the natural scenery is to walk on the wooden boardwalks that run through the lakes and forests. Do note, however, that the distance from one scenic spot to another can vary between 90m and 4000m (4km)! In the interest of time, it’s best to combine walking with taking the bus if you are spending only one day at the park. If you are in a group, it might make sense to charter a bus. In this way, you are guaranteed that all must-see spots are covered.

There is a cafeteria serving buffet lunch at the intersection of the Y. Although hot and cold drinking water was available, no drinking cups were provided. I suspect it is common practice to bring your own drinking bottles and re-fill from the dispenser. As I didn’t carry a water bottle with me, I had to use a rice bowl as a cup!

One final point. The visitor maps are all in Chinese. Most of the service staff and bus drivers do not speak English. If you are like me – can’t read Chinese, it is best to download an English map of Jiuzhaigou and bring it along with you. Trust me. It will save you a lot of time, frustration and disappointment.

Diexi Lake: What Lies Beneath (#38)

En route to Jiuzhaigou from Chengdu, China, the bus stopped by at Diexi Lake for a 20-minute break. Diexi Lake is a landslide dam-created lake and lies at the foot of Minshan Mountain and upper reaches of the Minjiang River. It is a famous for its serene and calm green waters, surrounded by mountains and green forests. With a vast area of 350 million square metres, Diexi Lake is the pearl of the Sichuan-Tibet Plateau.

However, there is a tragic story behind this picturesque landscape. Diexi Lake was formed as a result of a huge earthquake in 1933. Measuring 7.5 on the Richter scale, the Diexi Earthquake completely destroyed the town including 21 other neighbouring villages, killing some 6,000 people! The landslides that resulted created dams across the river, and the ancient town was completely swallowed up by Diexi Lake!

Maybe if you dive down deep enough, you can find the lost city of Diexilantis!

Sunset at Lake Lucerne (#25)

I had hoped that dinner service would be over quickly so that I could go opposite the hotel to catch the sunset. Unfortunately, between the main course and dessert, a big group arrived for dinner, resulting in our dessert being delayed. After 20 minutes of waiting, I decided to just skip dessert and go across the road to catch the sunset.

It was disappointing to discover that the sun had already snuggled behind the mountains.

Mont Blanc (#22)

Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in the Alps and in Western Europe. Mont Blanc means “White Mountain” for its perpetual snow fields and glaciers. Towering at 15,782 feet (4,810 meters) trekkers get to see incredible vistas from high mountain passes, lush valleys, highway-sized glaciers and alpine views.

Getting up close and personal to Mont Blanc is a 20-minute ride in the Aiguille du Midi cable car from Chamonix. Be mindful of altitude sickness. At those heights, breathing gets a bit more difficult due to the thin air, and giddiness might set in.

We met a couple who were just about to begin their trekking journey. We stayed around to watch them adorn their heavy snow gear. Some snapshots together, one good-bye and they went their way, disappearing into the snow.

I took this opportunity to Step Into The Void,  a 2.5 meter glass enclosure, extending over a 1000 meter precipice.

The Rainbow and the Waterfall

The spectacular Wachirathan Waterfall lies halfway up the mountain in Doi Inthanon National Park, Chiang Mai. This scenic spot is a favourite among locals and visitors alike. The waterfall has a steep drop of 60 meters with a powerful cascade falling over a granite escarpment into a deep waterhole below.

Trying to capture the beauty of Wachirathan Waterfall is somewhat of a challenge.

Firstly, many people go to the waterfall because it is very accessible. You can drive all the way up and the carpark is right next to it. This means you are “fighting” with others for that “ideal” spot that convincingly captures the waterfall in the background! Then there are those inconsiderate individuals who park themselves right in front of the sweet spot and refuse to budge! No matter what the distance, which angle you go for, they (or parts of them) always show up in the viewfinder!

Secondly, the spray emitted from this waterfall is so strong that you cannot get near it without getting wet! Yes, there is a little path built downstream for a better view of the waterfall. But I suspect this path remains muddy, wet and slippery most of the time, because water and wind make a strong combination.

Thirdly, it wasn’t raining during the drive up to Wachirathan Waterfall, but it started to drizzle quite heavily by the time I arrived at the carpark.

I must admit I was worried. To go all the way there and not have the chance to get one decent shot! I didn’t even dare to take out my camera for fear of it getting wet! I felt disappointed.

However, there was no way I was going home without at least one waterfall photo! I decided to make my way a little further downstream, away from the crowd. I then positioned myself under some tall trees and took out my camera. To my horror, my lens started to mist up again. In frustration, I turned away from the waterfall and tried to wipe the moisture away without damaging the lens. Even my spectacles had started to mist. I felt beaten and defeated. Another wasted journey. 

Then I looked up…and couldn’t believe my eyes!

There right in front of me was a beautiful, perfectly formed rainbow!

The waterfall was completely forgotten! I looked around to see if there was anyone nearby. Nobody. No one to snatch this moment with their put-on smiles and artificial poses! Joy!  Bliss! Jubilation!

After taking a few shots, I decided to take the risk and make my way towards the river to get a closer view of the rainbow. Unfortunately, it had disappeared by the time I got to the slippery path. In the end, I did manage to get some photos of the waterfall. However, it is the image of the beautiful rainbow that will forever be etched in my mind whenever I think of Wachirathan Waterfall!

Time Out at Ban Mae Klang Luang in Chiang Mai

While making our way down from Doi Inthanon National Park in Thailand, I asked my local guide/driver if we could stop for a drink before making the one-and-a half-hour journey back to Chiang Mai. I was feeling a bit tired from our visit to Doi Inthanon that morning. Furthermore, I was still recovering from the shock of going to the temple’s public toilet! Never before have I had to take off my shoes and socks, walk barefoot into a dark cubicle and step on the very wet, dirt-covered floor to have a “bio” break. To make things worse, the toilet was fashioned in the traditional style where you have no choice but to squat!

But I digress as usual. The driver offered to take me to a place that not only served good coffee but boasted of  beautiful scenery as well.  This meant that dinner would be delayed and would I mind?

Would I mind? I asked if we could stop for drink and he throws in a view as well!  Dinner could certainly wait! 

This proposition made me feel better immediately. It took a good 20 minutes to drive down the winding road to get to the base of the mountain. In the meantime, my fatigue had miraculously disappeared. I could not wait to see what was in store for me. The limousine finally exited off the main road and we arrived at Ban Mae Klang Luang.

Mae Klang Luang is a small but unique village that is promoted as an ecotourism destination. What this means is that this eco-village is great for indulging in activities like photography, bird-watching, nature trekking or as a short getaway from life in the city. All ecotourism activities in the village are run and managed by an ethnic hill tribe known as Karen. The Karen are of Burmese origin who migrated to Thailand in the 18th Century.

Visitors who wish to learn more about the Karen’s culture, language and way of life can put up in the homestays operated and managed by the Karen.

After a short climb up a dirt road, we stopped at a small clearing near the top of the hill. The view in front of me was a beautiful panorama of lush paddy fields growing in the valley below, and extending across the gentle, terraced hill slopes. Each rice field was separated by a traditional drainage system, harmonising a beautiful, carved landscape between man and nature.

On the way up to get a better view of the rice fields across the valley, our car drove past a minivan parked next to a little store. From the body language of its passengers, it looked like the driver had accidentally left his keys inside the locked vehicle. The minivan was still there when we emerged from the dirt road some 30 minutes later. I asked my driver if he knew of any mechanic nearby who could assist in putting the passengers out of their misery. He reassured me that there was a town ten minutes away and told me not to worry as the Thais have a solution for everything!

It was then time to go for coffee!  The “coffee shop” turned out to be a bamboo shelter built on a gentle hill slope away from the other Karen dwellings.

My Karen host using a manual coffee grinder, fitted with a mortar and leg pestle to grind the coffee into very fine powder.

Water is put to the boil in an iron kettle over a charcoal stove.

 

Karen women wear tunics and skirts in bold colours, usually blue and red. This woman is married because she is wearing a coloured blouse instead of a white V-necked blouse worn by unmarried women.

So there we were. Six European bikers, four Asians and two Americans seated round a long wooden table to savour the taste of freshly ground, piping hot Arabica coffee.

The “coffee shop” which serves up a mean cup of Arabica coffee.

The wife of our Karen host. I was taken by her serene face and graceful demeanour.

It was the best Arabica coffee I have ever tasted, even up to this day!

Photo Trip to Sungai Lembing

Sometime in November 2013, I decided to go on my first-ever photo tour to Sungai Lembing with 13 other photo enthusiasts from Singapore.

Sungai Lembing is a small town in Pahang, Malaysia, that used to be the richest tin mine in the world in the 1940s. Until today, Sungai Lembing has not really kept up with modernization.  It could be this very reason that this little town has made a name for itself as a tourist spot for urbanites who want to experience authentic village life, enjoy unspoilt tropical scenery and savour cheap and good local food.  Sungai means “river” in Malay, and Lembing means “spear”.  Legend has it that the village head at that time saw a vision of a spear in the nearby river and decided to name this town after it.

Charas Cave (Gua Charas)

My first stop was Gua Charas (Charas Cave), a 400-million year old cave inside a limestone hill. The cave is a holy site for both Hindus and Buddhists. It was quite a steep 20-foot climb up the metal staircase  to reach the cave.

It takes about 20 – 30  minutes to climb up the 300+ steep metal stairs that lead up to the temple.

On reaching the top, however, it was liberating and exhilarating to take in the magnificent view from above the tree tops!

Close to the trees

Story has it that a Buddhist monk climbed up the steep slopes everyday to pray.  He loved the spot so much that he decided to turn the cave into a temple.  Today, Charas Cave is visited by both Buddhist and Hindu devotees.  The main chamber inside the cave is spacious, cool and airy.  But it became progressively darker as I walked deeper in.  Thankfully, spotlights have been installed to light up the uneven way.   There are shrines, statues, artifacts and symbols along the uneven ground, as well as a 30-foot sleeping Buddha at the far end of the cave.

A Hindu shrine inside the cave

Hindu ceremony taking place inside the cave

Devotees praying

The devotees are dressed in their best to pay homage to their Hindu god.

Pandan Waterfall

Pandan Waterfall is one of those waterfalls that allows you to climb on the rocks to get really up close.  I would have definitely liked to stay there longer.  Unfortunately, it started to rain heavily about 30 minutes into arrival, and we had to run for shelter to protect our camera gear!

Enjoying the beauty of Pandan Waterfall

Roast Pork for Supper

After a thoroughly satisfying barbecue dinner at the resort, the group boarded the coach again in search of supper. Sungai Lembing boasts of roast pork that’s done to perfection. The char-siew (roast pork) shop turned out to be a family home, with the rear of the house serving as a roast pork production area, complete with hooks, cutting utensils, chopping boards and a roasting pit dug deep into the ground.

We bought 2 huge packets of roast meat and headed for a 1940’s-style coffee shop (were you expecting Starbucks?). We chatted, laughed and exchanged stories over aromatic coffee and the tastiest roast pork ever! However, the rain continued to pour outside the coffee shop, and I was worried that it would not stop in time for us to catch the sunrise at Panorama Hill.

As the night went on, my worst fears were realised when the storm showed no signs of abating by 4am.  We were forced to abandon our plans to climb Panorama Hill.

Sungai Lembing’s Sunday Market

The Sunday market at Sungai Lembing town was bustling with life by the time we went for breakfast at 7:30am. By then, the rain had stopped.  I ordered Sungai Lembing’s famous yong tau foo and tomato noodles which are said to be made from water from the nearby mountains, giving the noodles a smooth texture.  After breakfast, the group decided to make a delayed climb up Panorama Hill.

Sungai Lembing town seen from the top of a road

Backlanes

Sungai Lembing Sunday market on a wet morning

Sweet potatoes for sale

Sungai Lembing is well known for its King of Fruits – Durians

Tomato Noodles for breakfast

Panorama Hill

Panorama Hill is famous for its magnificent view of the natural surroundings, and is especially well-known for its spectacular sunrise above the sea clouds.  A point to note on the supposed 45-minute climb.  This may be true for those who are young and fit.  There are certain parts of the trail which are quite steep and have no steps. Sixty to eighty minutes uphill is a more realistic estimate for those who don’t exercise regularly!

Panorama Hill after a thunderstorm.

Another beautiful view on the way down from Panorama Hill.

Looking on the plus side, I was not under pressure to make it to the top within 45 minutes to catch the sunrise. I took some short breaks during the climb to regain my breath and savour the fresh air, beauty and tranquillity around me.   Mother Nature had also played a part in making this photo trip a little different from what I expected. I got a taste of what the residents face during the monsoon season – like having to make my way on foot to town because a tree had been struck down by lightning and was blocking the entire road, making my way gingerly across the thorny branches to get to the other side and feeling my way around in foot-deep flood water.

What a great time!

The group that went to Sungai Lembing. The one squatting is me.