Old Is Gold (#3)

After exploring Chiang Rai town for three hours, I was ready to make my way back to the hotel. I was tired, couldn’t think straight and had lost my way. Instead of finding the main road, I somehow ended up in a dark, quiet back street where I came across this advertisement that attracted my attention.

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The Rainbow and the Waterfall

Watcharithan Waterfall

The spectacular Wachirathan Waterfall lies halfway up the mountain in Doi Inthanon National Park, Chiang Mai. This scenic spot is a favourite among locals and visitors alike. The waterfall has a steep drop of 60 meters with a powerful cascade falling over a granite escarpment into a deep waterhole below.

Trying to capture the beauty of Wachirathan Waterfall is somewhat of a challenge.

Firstly, many people go to the waterfall because it is very accessible. You can drive all the way up and the carpark is right next to it. This means you are “fighting” with others for that “ideal” spot that convincingly captures the waterfall in the background! Then there are those inconsiderate individuals who park themselves right in front of the sweet spot and refuse to budge! No matter what the distance, which angle you go for, they (or parts of them) always show up in the viewfinder!

Secondly, the spray emitted from this waterfall is so strong that you cannot get near it without getting wet! Yes, there is a little path built downstream for a better view of the waterfall. But I suspect this path remains muddy, wet and slippery most of the time, because water and wind make a strong combination.

Thirdly, it wasn’t raining during the drive up to Wachirathan Waterfall, but it started to drizzle quite heavily by the time I arrived at the carpark.

I must admit I was worried. To go all the way there and not have the chance to get one decent shot! I didn’t even dare to take out my camera for fear of it getting wet! I felt disappointed.

However, there was no way I was going home without at least one waterfall photo! I decided to make my way a little further downstream, away from the crowd. I then positioned myself under some tall trees and took out my camera. To my horror, my lens started to mist up again. In frustration, I turned away from the waterfall and tried to wipe the moisture away without damaging the lens. Even my spectacles had started to mist. I felt beaten and defeated. Another wasted journey. 

Then I looked up…and couldn’t believe my eyes!

There right in front of me was a beautiful, perfectly formed rainbow!

The waterfall was completely forgotten! I looked around to see if there was anyone nearby. Nobody. No one to snatch this moment with their put-on smiles and artificial poses! Joy!  Bliss! Jubilation!

The Rainbow in Chiangmai

After taking a few shots, I decided to take the risk and make my way towards the river to get a closer view of the rainbow. Unfortunately, it had disappeared by the time I got to the slippery path. In the end, I did manage to get some photos of the waterfall. However, it is the image of the beautiful rainbow that will forever be etched in my mind whenever I think of Wachirathan Waterfall!

Time Out at Ban Mae Klang Luang in Chiang Mai

While making our way down from Doi Inthanon National Park in Thailand, I asked my local guide/driver if we could stop for a drink before making the one-and-a half-hour journey back to Chiang Mai. I was feeling a bit tired from our visit to Doi Inthanon that morning. Furthermore, I was still recovering from the shock of going to the temple’s public toilet! Never before have I had to take off my shoes and socks, walk barefoot into a dark cubicle and step on the very wet, dirt-covered floor to have a “bio” break. To make things worse, the toilet was fashioned in the traditional style where you have no choice but to squat!

But I digress as usual. The driver offered to take me to a place that not only served good coffee but boasted of  beautiful scenery as well.  This meant that dinner would be delayed and would I mind?

Would I mind? I asked if we could stop for drink and he throws in a view as well!  Dinner could certainly wait! 

This proposition made me feel better immediately. It took a good 20 minutes to drive down the winding road to get to the base of the mountain. In the meantime, my fatigue had miraculously disappeared. I could not wait to see what was in store for me. The limousine finally exited off the main road and we arrived at Ban Mae Klang Luang.

Mae Klang Luang is a small but unique village that is promoted as an ecotourism destination. What this means is that this eco-village is great for indulging in activities like photography, bird-watching, nature trekking or as a short getaway from life in the city. All ecotourism activities in the village are run and managed by an ethnic hill tribe known as Karen. The Karen are of Burmese origin who migrated to Thailand in the 18th Century.

Karen Homestay Chalets
Visitors who wish to learn more about the Karen’s culture, language and way of life can put up in the homestays operated and managed by the Karen.

After a short climb up a dirt road, we stopped at a small clearing near the top of the hill. The view in front of me was a beautiful panorama of lush paddy fields growing in the valley below, and extending across the gentle, terraced hill slopes. Each rice field was separated by a traditional drainage system, harmonising a beautiful, carved landscape between man and nature.

BanMaeKlangLuangCollage

On the way up to get a better view of the rice fields across the valley, our car drove past a minivan parked next to a little store. From the body language of its passengers, it looked like the driver had accidentally left his keys inside the locked vehicle. The minivan was still there when we emerged from the dirt road some 30 minutes later. I asked my driver if he knew of any mechanic nearby who could assist in putting the passengers out of their misery. He reassured me that there was a town ten minutes away and told me not to worry as the Thais have a solution for everything!

It was then time to go for coffee!  The “coffee shop” turned out to be a bamboo shelter built on a gentle hill slope away from the other Karen dwellings.

Grounding Coffee
My Karen host using a manual coffee grinder, fitted with a mortar and leg pestle to grind the coffee into very fine powder.
Kettle on a Stove
Water is put to the boil in an iron kettle over a charcoal stove.

 

Pouring Hot Water
Karen women wear tunics and skirts in bold colours, usually blue and red. This woman is married because she is wearing a coloured blouse instead of a white V-necked blouse worn by unmarried women.

So there we were. Six European bikers, four Asians and two Americans seated round a long wooden table to savour the taste of freshly ground, piping hot Arabica coffee.

Coffee Hut
The “coffee shop” which serves up a mean cup of Arabica coffee.
Karen Woman
The wife of our Karen host. I was taken by her serene face and graceful demeanour.

It was the best Arabica coffee I have ever tasted, even up to this day!

Dancing with Wild Monkeys in Chiangrai

Thailand has always been one of my favourite holiday and shopping destinations. It represents a good mix of the old and the new, traditional and contemporary. The food, whether from a roadside stall or restaurant, always tempts the taste-buds. Learning about the earthquake that devastated Thailand in early May brought back fond memories of my trip to Chiang Rai last year.

Halfway stop during the 4-hr journey from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai.
On my way from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai, I had a delayed lunch at the highest hot springs in Thailand.
Authentic Thai Hawker Food
Thai Beef Noodles

Temple1

Temple 2
There are temples around every corner of Thailand.
Market
Chiang Rai Market
Pub
It’s time to chill out with friends when the sun sets.
Weekend Market on Saturday
Chiang Rai Weekend Market. A good way to sample authentic street food.
Old Car
I was walking along the back streets of Chiang Rai when I saw this advertisement for a guest house!
Weekend Market
Weekend Market

White Temple (Wat Rong Khun)

When the hotel’s limousine pulled up at the White Temple before just before 8:30am, the sun was just peeping out after a drizzle. This was my first breathtaking view of the magnificent Wat Rong Khun, sparkling majestically and beckoning every visitor to bow to its beauty.

White Temple
The magnificent White Temple, Wat Rong Kun

Wat Rong Khun stands out as the only white temple in Thailand and is the work of celebrated artist and owner, Chalermchai Kositpipat. Everything about the temple reflects the artist’s idea of heaven, hell and Nirvana. Everywhere you turn, there are sculptures, features and carvings to marvel at, including hundreds of koi swimming in the huge fountain in front of the temple.

Side view of Wat Rong Khun
Side view of Wat Rong Khun
Rear of White Temple
The rear of the White Temple upon exit.
Side of White Temple
The view walking back to the temple entrance

To get to the Central Hall, I crossed a bridge guarded by demons, and made my way across over a sea of clawing hands. Once you get on the bridge, you are not allowed to turn back.

As expected, there were statues of Buddhas, symbols and motifs adorning one wall in the Central Hall. But wait! Those images on the opposite wall look familiar! New York’s Twin Towers on fire, with another plane fast approaching, George Bush, Spiderman, Michael Jackson, Star Wars characters, Harry Potter, Freddy Kruger, Avatar characters, Terminator, Transformers, Elvis and even Kungfu Panda!  I was taken aback by what the murals were trying to convey.

Story has it that the villagers were initially against the construction of Wat Rong Kun 1997. Temples in Thailand are usually painted in gold.  To have a temple in white was considered sacrilegious. Chalermchai chose white instead of gold, to symbolise Buddha’s purity. The mirrors embedded in the structure represent Buddha’s wisdom shining across the earth and universe.  The White Temple has since brought thousands of tourists to the area, and the community has benefited socially and economically.

Visiting the restroom in Wat Rong Khun is an experience. The room is spacious, luxurious and painted in gold. Chalermchai might have been trying to say that riches, opulence and wordly desires are transient, superficial pleasures that do not possess  any real value or lasting happiness.

White Temple Restroom
Public restroom fit for a king!

There is no admission fee for those who want to visit the temple.

I was saddened to read that the White Temple suffered heavy damage from the Bangkok Quake, and is now closed for repairs. Whether the shutdown is temporary or permanent is anyone’s guess.

Black House (Baan Dam)

The Black House

The Black House is the personal art collection of  Thawan Duchanee, but it isn’t your usual art collection or museum. The Black House is dark and gothic. The 40 wooden houses are decorated and lined with animal skulls, shells, bones, skin and painting from South East Asia.

Black House Interior
Some of the bizarre artefacts found inside the Black House. In the foreground is a runner made from snake skin.
Black House Compound
Animal remains are carefully arranged under all the houses, arousing conflicting emotions. Is this art or something more sinister?

Every new turn was full of surprises. Baan Dam is Thawan Duchanee’s depiction of hell.  This structure is the opposite of the White Temple, designed by Thawan’s teacher, Chalermchai.  Entry into the Black House is also free.

Owner's House
Thawan Duchanee lives just down the road from the Black House.

Chiangrai may look like a traditional provincial city but from the looks of the White Temple and Black House, it is a remarkable centre for nurturing Thai tradition with unique artistry and creativity.

Doi Mae Salong

Tea Planter
Mae Salong is well-known for its tea plantations

Doi Mae Salong is one of the highest peaks in Chiang Rai. The ride up the mountain was pleasant, and the air fresh and cool.  Most of the villagers staying today are ethnic Chinese and direct descendants of the Kuomintang.

Eating Crispy Maggots
I did some tea testing in one of the many little tea shops in Mae Salong town. In addition to selling tea and snacks, the shop also offered a wide variety of dried foods. I finally plucked up the courage to try a maggot (foreground). It was quite crunchy and I ended up eating quite a few! I was invited to try the worms (top left) but declined!

The ideal conditions in Doi Mae Salong allow the cultivation of high quality teas. The sharp difference in night and day temperatures hold back the growth of the tea leaves, resulting in greater sweetness and aromas.  The high altitudes are ideal conditions for the tea to absorb moisture from the clouds.

Rows of tea being grown on the mountainside.
Rows of tea being grown on the mountainside.
Tea Plantation 2
101 Tea Plantation is one of the big producers of high-grade quality tea.

The Golden Triangle

The Golden Triangle is the meeting point of the Mekong River and Ruak River, that make up the borders of Laos, Myanmar and Thailand. This area used to be the centre of the flourishing opium trade.

Golden Buddha
The giant Golden Buddha sitting on a ship at the Golden Triangle.
Golden Triangle
Boats for hire at the Golden Triangle.

My first stop was at the Hall of Opium. This fascinating museum houses the history and politics of how the opium trade started.

Hall of Opium
The effects of opium addiction

I then enjoyed a boat ride just to feel what it was like to be surrounded by three countries.

Boats
Getting the boat ready for my cruise down the Golden Triangle.

The boat also took me to the small island of Don Sao belonging to Laos. No visa is required for this quiet, tax-free shopping haven, selling souvenirs, cigarettes and local drinks. For a small fee, you can also have your passport stamped as proof that you have been to Laos.  However, tourists are not allowed to enter into the rest of Laos without a visa.

Laotian Beer
A can of cold Laotian beer was just what I needed to quench my thirst on a hot afternoon.
Stall in Laos
One of the many stalls on the Laos side of the Golden Triangle.

Monkey Temple/Fish Cave Temple (Wat Tham Pla)

There were only a few local visitors at the Monkey/Fish Cave Temple When I arrived  in the late afternoon.  After feeding the thousands of fish swimming in the lake at the base of the cave, I was ready to make the climb up to the Monkey Temple.

A young boy of about 12 years old volunteered to be my guide.  Armed with a long stick, we proceeded to climb the 200+ stone steps to get inside the huge cave hidden behind towering limestone walls.

Monkey Temple
The Fish Cave Temple with the Monkey Temple situated high up in the limestone rock. In the foreground is my young guide.

The moment we started climbing the steep steps, monkeys appeared from nowhere and started to follow us on the metal railing. Occasionally, they would make their way in front of us and block the narrow steps. I was told to keep close and ignore the monkeys. As we reached higher, the air felt different and the scenery was breathtaking. There were all kinds of sounds coming from the nearby forest.

Just as we were about to reach the top, I turned around to take a photo of the view below. Big mistake! As I was composing my shot, some monkeys began inching their way towards me. A monkey started to snarl and show its teeth. I started to shout for help but it was too late! Before my young guide had time to react, the monkey had lunged at me and sunk its teeth into my left arm. While I was trying to shake it off, a second monkey came at me and attacked me from the front.  A third one went behind me and started biting my inner thigh.

The monkeys retreated when my guide started to shout and swing his stick madly on the ground. We hurriedly made our way across the 15- meter clearing and sought refuge inside the cave.

Monkeys Stalking
Seconds after I took this shot, the monkeys attacked me.

I asked if the monkeys would follow us into the cave, but was told that the temple was sacred and no monkey would dare enter where Buddha sat.  In the meantime, a group of 15 to 20 monkeys had made their way from the trees down to the clearing in front of the cave. No doubt they were planning their next move and waiting for me to come out of the cave!

I turned my attention towards the cave temple. It was damp, cold and dark, with two chambers housing a shrine of a golden Buddha.

Dark Cave
The divide between wild macaques outside and safe darkness inside

The soothing smell of incense permeated the main chamber. Somehow, I felt safe inside the cave temple, despite hearing  the loud chattering of macaques a few feet outside.

Cave 2
A small opening at the top of the otherwise dark cave.

When the time came to leave, the guide told me that we had to remain inside the cave until the monkey leader left the compound. We had tried to make our way towards the steps, but retreated once again into the cave when monkeys started scrambling down from the steep limestone walls.  After about half an hour later, the chattering stopped suddenly and the compound fell eerily silent. The guide signalled that the monkey leader had left the area, taking his followers with him.  We hurriedly made our way across the clearing and down the steps.

Only after reaching safe ground did I realise that there was a big tear in front of my T-shirt and the bites to my arm and leg had drawn blood. I nursed my wounds by buying some “holy” water that had been blessed by the monk, and wrapped up my visit by drinking a cup of hot chocolate in one of the nearby eating stalls.