Travelling in a Campervan – The Good, The Bad and The Ugly

Here are some thoughts and lessons learned from my epic campervan road trip to New Zealand.

Packing and Storage Becomes a Nightmare

Packing for a road adventure in New Zealand is a time-consuming, hair-pulling experience. Not only do you have to take into account the temperature, weather conditions and terrain when deciding what clothes to bring, you also need to consider the extra weight and space that will be taken up by your camera gear.

I cannot remember the number of times I packed, unpacked and re-packed my bags prior to the trip.

The lack of space became even more obvious after we came out from the supermarket with two trolleys-full of food that would see us through for the next 4 days. Space was tight. There was hardly any room to move around.

Have you heard of the Japanese video game called Sokoban? This is a game of strategy where the player moves boxes around in a warehouse in order to get inside the storage room and stack them correctly in their marked spaces. Well, that video puzzle is a graphic illustration of the stretching, bending, moving and shifting we had to do to get around inside the campervan. Living in an RV is a good way to strengthen your spine and tone up your arms without really trying.

When you are in this situation, your mind is constantly thinking of ways to “dig in” and get the essentials out of your luggage so that you can step out into the night at short notice. More often than not, your bag will be the one that’s lying right at the bottom of the pile!

Say good-bye to privacy and personal space

When you are cramped 24/7 in a small space with five other people, getting some time by yourself is out of the question. You need to manage expectations and sacrifice privacy. Certain things will need to be done surreptitiously – like hiding your bra under your pillow before going to bed, so that you are able to put it back on while still under the blanket without others noticing.

The only place for some time to myself was inside the shower room in the campground. Even then, things did not turn out quite the way I expected. The shower room at Glentanner Holiday Park looked presentable – minimalistic but clean, dry with a bench provided to place your personal items. Best of all, there was no one else inside but me! What a treat to get some quiet time and enjoy a nice hot shower …or so I thought! My joy was short-lived. When I turned on the shower tap, only cold water came out. After spending an agonizing couple of minutes inside the shower, I gave up. In my haste to get out as quickly as possible, I forgot to retrieve my soap and shampoo, and had to go without them for the rest of the trip.

While it may be argued that giving up your privacy enables you to spend quality time with your favourite people, I’m not sure if this holds true when you are in the company of people you’ve just met. That said, even the best of friends can end up as enemies after travelling together.

Waste not, want not

When you’re in a hotel, you don’t think twice about flushing the toilet, indulging in a 20-minute shower or washing up. After all, you paid for the room and are perfectly entitled to use the facilities, right? You don’t really notice the amount of water that flows down the drain. And when you throw things away, you don’t really think about how much waste goes into the bin.

But when you travel in a campervan, you become very conscious of what you consume and throw away – because nobody’s going to help or clean up after you. This is the reality of going on a road trip in an RV. You have to collect your own water and empty the waste afterwards. There are dump point stations in the camp grounds that provide an environmentally-friendly way of disposing grey and black water, as well as sewage waste. I made it a point to see how waste was disposed of and it was not as gross as it sounds – you don’t get your hands dirty.

Campervan living helps us to appreciate the little everyday things we take for granted. Many people around the world go through their lives without these luxuries, and it’s sometimes good to take a step back and be thankful for what we have.

Recharging at the right place and time

You may want to kill two birds with one stone and charge your phone and batteries during the drive to your next destination. By doing this, you will simply be tapping power from the camper’s battery…and you really don’t want your vehicle to stall in the middle of a mountain road. The same thing goes for having lights on while the camper is moving. The right time to charge all electronic and digital devices is when your RV is plugged to an AC outlet in the camp site.

More options

Traveling in a camper gives you more choices on how you wish to spend your money. You can choose to cook your own meals instead of eating out in a restaurant. You can make your own 3-in-1 cuppa instead of going to Starbucks. And forget about paying those high hotel rates. You’ve been upgraded to a one-star tortoise and can bring along your home anytime, everytime!

If it’s broken, YOU fix it

When you run into little problems during your journey, like the heater not working or the camper door not shutting properly, there’s no one around to make things right and you have to step up, take ownership and fix it yourself.

The good thing about fixing these little hiccups on your own is that it eventually becomes second nature. You’ll become more confident and self-reliant. There’s no problem you cannot fix! Way to go! You’re the man!

Action and Reflection

While driving a camper is not that different from driving a car, it’s size and weight means that extra care must be given when parking or reversing. Due to the camper’s extra height, you need to exercise greater caution when driving under low roofs, fast food drive-throughs and low hanging branches. The camper’s higher centre of gravity also means that you need to take corners more slowly to avoid loss of control and toppling over.

No wonder it is physically and mentally exhausting to be in the driver’s seat of a campervan! The safety of your passengers is in your hands. You’ll just want to take things more slowly instead of putting pressure on yourself to cover too many places in one trip.

However, being behind the wheel of an RV does have its advantages. You not only get an unobstructed view of what’s in front but also the sides – the smaller roads, shops, buildings, signages and people. You get a glimpse into how others live, work and play so that the entire travel experience becomes more relatable and meaningful.

With freedom comes great sacrifice

Getting around in an RV means making some adjustments to the way you travel. You won’t always have WiFi access and you may not be able to shower as often as you’d like. You will have to cook your own meals and improvise as you go along.

But for all these sacrifices you get a taste of endless freedom and possibilities. You can choose to sleep beside a mountain lake tonight and at the beach tomorrow. You’ll start to look for those unique and hidden places that you wouldn’t be able to go otherwise. It’s your call. The world seems more accessible when your home has wheels…and it’s rather comforting to have your everyday essentials within arm’s reach!

Last Stop: Moeraki Boulders

The last pitstop of my road trip across New Zealand was the Moeraki Boulders on South Island’s Otago Coast.

The Moeraki Boulders refer to 50 boulders or so, found scattered across Koekohe Beach in Moeraki. What distinguishes them from other rock formations is that they are perfectly spherical in shape with large cracks in them.

With the sea as a backdrop, these geological oddities have become a popular photo stop on South Island’s Otago Coast.

The boulders come in different sizes and about two-thirds of the boulders are huge – weighing several tonnes and measuring between 1.5m to 2.2m in diameter!

There is really no convincing explanation as to how Nature has been able to shape these perfectly geometrical formations.

The mythical belief is that Maori seafarers to New Zealand got caught in a terrible storm, finally capsizing on the Otago coast. Both the canoe and crew subsequently turned to stone and the eel baskets they were carrying morphed into the smooth round stones you see today.

Photo Credit: Jo Chung

Others say that the boulders are dinosaur eggs or giants that have been buried with only their skulls sticking out of the sand. Believers of The Twilight Zone theorise that aliens visited earth and left these eggs behind. Then there’s the biblical version that these are fireballs that have fallen from the sky.

The scientific explanation for these unusual rocks is that the boulders are calcite concretions formed some 65 million years ago. Despite this, there are still lots of unanswered questions as to how the Moeraki Boulders came about so I will just leave it at that.

The best time to see the Moeraki Boulders is at low tide when they are properly exposed on the beach and you are able to appreciate their full size. During low tide that occurs twice a day, it is common to see people climbing on to the rocks and jumping from one stone to another, while others like to pose for selfies. Some boulders are hollow enough for children to play hide and seek!

When the tide comes in, the boulders are hidden underwater and if you happen to be visiting at this time, you’ll probably be wondering what the “oohs” and “ahhs” were all about.

Video Credit: Jo Chung

From Moeraki, we made the 4-hour drive back to Christchurch. It was a good thing that we started off early for Christchurch. This gave us enough time at the RV office to tick off the inventory list and finalise the necessary documentation before surrendering the camper. Everything was intact except for two non-matching pieces of cutlery and a missing dinner plate for which a small penalty was imposed.

Then it was time to get into the shuttle, fly Jetstar to Auckland and board the international flight that would take us home.

What a memorable adventure this road trip turned out to be. New Zealand is incredibly beautiful, with its dizzy, snow-capped mountainous, rugged coastlines and lush natural spots to feel relaxed and rejuvenated. No matter where you are in New Zealand, there’s always something around the corner that never ceases to amaze.

Night Sky: The Lighthouse at Nugget Point

The Catlins, nestled in the south-eastern part of South Island, is not in your typical tourist’s bucket list of must-see places in New Zealand. This is probably because it is a little out of the way. But if you are game for something that most people don’t get to see, then a visit here will open up a beautiful world of rugged landscapes with pristine but deserted beaches and lots of New Zealand wildlife.

Here is where you will find Nugget Point (“The Nuggets” as the locals call it) which boasts of two key features.

The first key feature refers to the huge lumps of eroded rocks “nuggets” sticking out of the sea. It was Captain James Cook who coined up the name “nuggets” because of their resemblance to gold nuggets.

The second feature is one of NZ’s oldest lighthouses, built in 1869, to warn small boats of the potential danger posed by the nuggets. I didn’t find Nugget Point Lighthouse to be particularly special and you can’t actually go inside. However this lonely structure does lend an added touch of interest to the already stunning scenery of the Catlins coast.

Nugget Point is about a 1.5-hour drive from Dunedin. There’s a parking area where you can leave your vehicle. Nearby is a public toilet that’s made up of a deep hole in the ground.

From the small parking lot, it takes about 15 to 20 minutes to hike up to the lighthouse. The gravel path carved on the sides of the steep cliffs takes you past some dramatic seascapes, which then narrows into a ridge for the final 50 metres to the lighthouse. There’s a viewing deck here for looking out at those famous “nuggets” being beaten by the wild waves of the Pacific Ocean.

The area is home to a wide species of seabirds and wildlife. There’s a large breeding colony of fur seals and this is one of the few places where you get to spot some of the world’s rarest penguins – the yellowed-eyed penguins.

At first, I was a little worried that I would not be able to keep up with the others when hiking up to the Lighthouse. My fears, however, were unfounded and I ended up visiting the Lighthouse three times in one night. The point I am trying to make is anyone of any age and fitness level can make it to the lighthouse. The only thing you need to be mindful is not to get too close to the path’s edge which drops down to the sea below.

View of the Nugget Point Lighthouse captured from an adjacent hill. Credit: Grey Chow

We practically had the whole mountain to ourselves for the time we were there. It was well worth all that effort in braving the cold, windy night to get an uninterrupted view of the stars and hearing the animated sounds of wildlife calling out to one another and frolicking in the water.

Reflection Perfection at Moke Lake

If you happen to be visiting Queenstown, a short detour to Moke Lake is worth adding to your travel bucket list. Moke Lake is just a 20-minute drive from bustling Queenstown but these two places couldn’t be any more different!

Moke Lake is best known for its raw scenery. The lake is framed by mountains which act as a shield from the wind. As a result, Moke Lake’s waters are relatively calm and still, generating incredible mirror-like reflections of the mountains. I was blown away by this stunning giant mirror in the lake!

There are a number of activities that you can do here. Besides hiking on some of the available trails, there’s also cycling, fishing, boating, fishing and horse-back riding. The lake’s isolated location away from the bright lights of Queenstown makes it a great spot for stargazing on a clear night – which was the main reason for visiting Moke Lake.

To get from Queenstown to this hidden gem, you’ll need to drive along the road to Glenorchy for about twenty minutes before coming to a sign that reads ‘Moke Lake Road’. You’ll then make your way up a steep and winding road that eventually transforms into a bumpy ride on an unsealed, gravel stretch of about 8km. Along the route, you’ll see the occasional farm with sheep. horses or cows grazing on open pastures, going past the smaller Lake Kirkpatrick before arriving at Moke Lake.

Lots of rolling pastureland on the way to Moke Lake.

Video Credit: Jo Chung

We arrived at Moke Lake shortly after 5:00pm, with darkness quickly setting in, leaving not much time to take in the tranquil views.

We hurried across the little wooden bridge to get to the other side of the lake, in order to find a suitable spot to capture the Milky Way. After walking for about 100 meters on a thin, grassy track, we found a suitable spot, set up our cameras close to the edge of the lake and did some test shots. We waited until the sun went down, hoping to catch its fading colours as it dipped below the horizon.

Credit: Jo Chung

Credit: Jo Chung

Sadly, the evening was misty and overcast so there was not much of a sunset. Nevertheless, I was hopeful that the mist and clouds would clear by night time, making way for the stars to be seen.

After the last rays of sunlight went behind the mountains, the entire area surrounding Moke Lake became very cold. Visibility was reduced due to the persistent blanket of cloud and mist that seemed to play hide-and-seek, making the silhouettes appear at one moment and disappear in the next.

At nightfall, Moke Lake assumes a surreal, ethereal and eerie-like appearance.

As it was difficult to see anything in all that mist and emerging blackness, we made our way back to the campervan for dinner. We were fortunate that our campermates from the second RV had volunteered to cook dinner for us, giving us latitude and more time to recce the vicinity.

For the first time since our road trip, all twelve of us sat together for dinner under the cold and windy sky. In the absence of WiFi connectivity, the silence of the evening was broken by lively chatter, lots of laughter, singing and telling stories without the usual distractions from social media.

Four of us set out at 5:00am the next morning, hoping to spot the Milky Way across Moke Lake. It was really freezing outside but we ventured out again across the bridge and into the blurry darkness, hiking to the same spot identified earlier on. Unfortunately, luck was not with us and we didn’t get to see a single star that morning.

Waiting for the mist to clear up.

A walk in the dark while waiting for sunrise

We decided to hang around and wait for sunrise instead. However, when the defining moment finally arrived, it was quickly masked by heavy clouds.

The bush sits right at the slope of the lake but the waters were not visible under all that mist.

While we didn’t quite get what we came to do at Moke Lake, I was more than happy to enjoy the tranquility of my surroundings – sitting on the grassy edge of the lake and watching the changing colours, silhouettes and reflections in the water.

A Shared Moment

I looked back to have one last look at the little stone church and saw the small silhouette of a dog running uphill towards the far edge where the boulders met the sky.

I watched the dog as it scrambled its way to highest rock and just stood there, as if also mesmerised by the fresh morning beauty of Lake Tekapo.

So glad to to have had someone to share this rare and special moment with me.

Night Sky: That Wanaka Tree

If there ever were a Survivor Award for nature, That Wanaka Tree is well- qualified to win it.

It can’t be easy having to stand all alone in a lake, under all kinds of weather and having to pose in front of a firing squad of tourists and photographers day in and day out.

This iconic tree stands out from the beautiful Wanaka Lake at the foothills of Mt. Aspiring National Park, framed by New Zealand’s Southern Alps.

To get to the tree, you can either follow the footpath across a forest of towering trees, or walk along the beach. That Wanaka Tree is just a stone’s throw away from the shore and you can’t fail to miss it.

It’s a great place for a sunrise or sunset picnic – that is, if you are not bothered by a crowd of people wanting to take selfies or capture that award-winning photo moment with That Wanaka Tree.

During my stay in Wanaka, the weather was overcast and cloudy lasting well into the night and next morning. Too bad that the Milky Way was not visible and the sunrise turned out to be less than spectacular.

Night Sky: A Rocky Hike on the Hooker Valley Track, NZ

The most popular track within the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park is the Hooker Valley Track. Anyone having a basic level of fitness and who’s game for a 3- to 4-hour hike can walk this track. At a distance of 5 km with a height of only 100 m at it’s highest elevation, this easy hike on boardwalks and crossing three swing bridges takes you across a scenic stretch of ice, rock and mountains. The Hooker Valley Track along the Hooker River ends at the Hooker Lake, where amazing views of Aoraki/Mount Cook can be seen especially on a clear day.

I was really looking forward to a relaxing hike and soaking myself in the beauty of the scenery around me.

When the campervan pulled up to the car park, I spotted a wooden sign at the trailhead stating that the track was closed to visitors from the first swing bridge.

The plan had been to spend the afternoon doing the Hooker Valley Track and remain at Hooker Lake after sunset to capture the Milky Way sky.

At that point, there really wasn’t much that could be done about the closure, so we continued walking as far in as the track allowed.

The views during that initial 15-minute walk were captivating, with the ice-capped mountain ranges as a backdrop, Mueller Lake at the base and rapids from the Hooker River cutting across the rocky landscape and making their way downstream.

Mueller Lake

When we arrived at the first swing bridge, our group leader told us to wait there while he went to find a suitable spot where we could spend the rest of the afternoon. By and by, we received a call asking us to get off the main track, hike up an adjacent mount and make our way down to Hooker River where he was already waiting for us.

The first swing bridge at Mueller’s Lake

Admittedly, I was very reluctant to go down, given the steep, rocky slopes that I would have to navigate to reach the river bank. However, it didn’t look like I had a choice. It was either that or waiting at the first swing bridge for the next two to three hours until the others came back up.

It took me a bit of time to make my way down to the river bank. I was afraid of losing my foothold and slipping all the way down to the bottom. Having to go off-track and rock-climbing was not something I had expected to do at Hooker Valley and I was not mentally prepared to undertake this activity.

I did, however, manage to reach the river bank in one piece together with my camera gear intact! The next challenge was to get low and close to the oncoming rapids by setting up the camera on some rocks standing out above the water.

Hooker River

The other six from our group of twelve came much later and spotted us from the top of the slope. Upon realising that they would have to make it all the way down the rocks to reach us, they decided to return to Glentanner Holiday Park instead!

The six of us remained behind until the last rays of light left the sky. By this time, all the other tourists and visitors had left the park and the entire place had become very dark, quiet and still, saved for the sound of flowing water.

It started to get very cold and as the evening progressed, the women decided to take their leave and make their way back to the campervan. I would have preferred to stay behind with the two men (since I wanted to delay the dreaded climb up for as long as possible) but fearing that I would hold them back if I left later, I decided to get a head start, joined the girls and started climbing into the darkness.

That decision turned out to be a mistake.

It seemed like we were climbing for a very long time and as we went upwards, each step up those rocks became more and more difficult until we had use both hands to lift ourselves up at certain points.

Finally, I pointed out that I didn’t remember taking such a long time to reach the trail that joined to the main track. The ‘leader’ of our group proceeded to climb a little further up to see if we were anywhere near our destination. She returned shortly with the words I had been dreading to hear.

“I think we are lost!”

We all went quiet, not knowing what to do. In the inky blackness of our rocky surrounds, we couldn’t see a thing and had lost all sense of direction. One of the girls suggested that we wait for the men to come along. I replied that it was highly unlikely that we would cross paths as we were already “off-track” from the off-track. At worst, we would have to spend the night there and wait for daylight.

Then an idea came to me. I asked everyone to shine their torches and headlamps to look for the first swing bridge, as that was where we had initially deviated from the main track.

Thankfully, someone did manage to spot the unlit bridge standing silently in the eerie darkness. We U-turned down the rocks and were relieved to find the little trail that led back to the main Hooker Valley Track!

As it turned out, we had actually arrived at the top of the outcrop, but had missed the barely visible foot trail and continued climbing, landing further up than we originally intended.

As for the men, they arrived back at the campervan just minutes after us. None of us told them about our little adventure.

Night Sky: Peter’s Lookout, Lake Pukaki, NZ

Light trails at Mt Cook Road

Peter’s Lookout

Night Sky: Chasing the Stars at Lake Tekapo, New Zealand

After dinner at the campsite, I found myself at Lake Tekapo again for my first attempt at night photography. The quiet surrounds looked very different from the one earlier in the day when there was still sufficient light across the sky.

This time round, the area around the lake was almost pitch black and we had to depend on our vehicle’s lights to navigate the road. The carpark, however, was full and we had to round the area twice to look for a parking lot spacious enough to fit the campervan. We managed to find one eventually, but it was situated a distance away from where we were headed.

We started walking along the road past the church and turned off into a small, grassy trail created by thousands of feet that had taken this similar path previously. Further in, the already-faint silhouettes of foliage started to blend into the darkness making it difficult to see where I was walking. My headlamp proved ineffective in penetrating the blackness of my surrounds.  I treaded carefully on the grass, twigs and knotted roots, afraid of what I was stepping on…afraid that I  would trip and fall.

After a minute or two, I found myself at the base of where the Church of the Good Shepherd was standing. I could hear hushed voices, whispers and murmurs, but couldn’t see the faces of those who had come for the same purpose. I managed to find a small space to place my tripod and reached blindly for my camera in the bag, ready to capture the most awesome photo of the Milky Way galaxy!

Despite previous tryouts in setting up the camera while blindfolded and familiarising myself with the buttons, I struggled to attach my camera to the tripod.  I couldn’t see a thing, and had to feel my way around the controls. It didn’t help that my fingers became numb from the cold. It was so frustrating.

My other two campervan mates were on the roll. Not only had they gotten the shots they came for, they even found time for a stroll to see what others were doing. One even managed to whip out a second camera to indulge in time-lapse photography.

After finally getting my set up completed, I was faced with another setback. I couldn’t lock in focus on my subject as it was so dark. Switching on the LED light was out of the question as there were other people in the middle of doing long exposures.

I think it was around that time that I started to panic. I couldn’t see because of the blackness, I couldn’t feel because of the cold, and I couldn’t move freely for fear of accidentally knocking my neighbour’s tripod (again). My brain went into shutdown and I couldn’t remember anything I had watched or read on night photography. I decided to walk away to clear my mind before returning and continuing where I had left off. (Even when inching slowly backwards to avoid knocking other people’s tripods, I slipped into a small depression on the ground but managed to prevent myself from falling completely).

It was an ecstatic moment when I finally managed to get an image of what looked like the Milky Way. Not a very good image, but nevertheless SOMETHING! Never mind the quality or composition. At least I wasn’t going back empty-handed. There is light at the end of the galaxy!

After being out in the cold outdoors for two hours, we decided to call it a night, with the aim of coming back to Lake Tekapo for a third time at 5:30am to catch the sunrise.

Moonset at Lake Tekapo.

Dawn of a new day.

Around New Zealand in a Campervan

I had always wondered what it would be like to travel in a campervan. The freedom that comes with living in my vehicle would mean that I would get to reach those faraway places that I would otherwise never get to visit and take away the need to rush off to an accommodation I had booked for the night.

I also wanted to learn more about night photography. Where I live, it’s just too risky to drive off into the night to chase the Milky Way.

So when I came across a 10-day Astrophotography Tour in a campervan, I was sold! That the road trip would be in New Zealand was the icing on the cake!

I was unfazed by the thought of being “squashed” inside an RV for 10 days with five other people. I figured that even if we didn’t get along, I would only need to suffer the inconvenience for 10 days. After all, no pain, no gain, right?

After deliberating for three days, I decided to sign up, lest I look back in regret and wonder what might have been.

Three months later, I met my other 11 campermates at the airport for the first time and we boarded the plane for Auckland.

New Zealand is a great country for campervanning as there’s not much traffic nor a bunch of maniac drivers terrorising the roads. While you’re not allowed to simply park at the side of the road, there are many powered campgrounds or “holiday parks” throughout New Zealand that are equipped with showers, toilets, kitchens and dining areas.

These are some of the places we visited during the roadtrip:-

• Christchurch
• Lake Tekapo
• Lake Pukaki
• Wanaka
• Queenstown
• Arrowtown
• Moke Lake
• Nugget Point
• Moeraki Boulders

Day 1: Auckland

In Auckland, we stayed a night at the Shakespeare Hotel and Brewery. This Elizabethan-style hotel sits right in the heart of Auckland’s CBD and is NZ’s oldest microbrewery and pub with a history spanning 120 years. With its craft beers brewed on-site, it’s a popular place among locals. When we arrived at the hotel, there were some major road works going on in the main street with the side roads sealed off. The taxi driver dropped us off a block away and we had to trudge to the hotel with luggage in hand.

As this hotel had its beginnings as a brewery with rooms added on much later, there were no lifts to our rooms which were all situated from the fourth floor upwards! It was a real struggle to drag my luggage up four flights of stairs and make my way downstairs again to help my new roommate with her luggage.

After a quick fresh-up, we took a walk along Auckland’s waterfront and celebrated our first evening in New Zealand with a sumptious oyster dinner at one of the nearby seafood restaurants.

At 4:30am, we were back at the airport ready to catch the 6:00am flight to Christchurch.

Day 2: Lake Tekapo, Christchurch

At Christchurch, we took the complimentary shuttle service to the campervan office located just 2.5 km away from the airline terminal. After one-and-a-half hours of filling out forms and receiving a “survival” briefing on campervanning rules and etiquette for driving on NZ roads, we were on our way in two campervans. The first place we drove to was PAK’nSAVE to stock up groceries for the trip.

Lake Tekapo is a great spot for stargazing as it comes under the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve. This means that there are lighting controls to minimize light pollution in the surrounding areas. The main attraction in this area is the quaint, stone Church of the Good Shepherd next to the Lake.

We camped at Lake Tekapo Holiday Park for the night. For starters, we spent quite a bit of time sorting and rearranging our bags, luggage and foodstuff so that there would be enough sleeping space for all six of us.

Day 3: Lake Pukaki & Mount Cook National Park

After enjoying an outdoor breakfast on a bench overlooking Lake Tekapo, we set off for Lake Pukaki and Mount Cook. The drive to Lake Pukaki was very scenic and we couldn’t resist making some unscheduled stops to admire the beauty of the landscape and its surroundings.

We made an exit to Mt Cook Alpine Salmon Shop along the way. Located on the edge of Mt Cook National Park, this Alpine Salmon Shop is stocked with freshwater king salmon raised in the cool, glacial waters of NZ’s Southern Alps. A wide selection of sashimi, fillets, hot smoked and whole salmon is sold at very reasonable prices.

There is a picnic area outside the shop that gives an unobstructed view of Lake Pukaki and Mt Cook looming majestically in the distance.

The aqua-coloured water at Lake Pukaki is brighter in shade than Lake Tekapo. This is the result of small particles from melting glaciers being suspended in the water, absorbing and scattering the colours of sunlight in the process.

We stayed at Glentanner Park Centre for two nights. This holiday park offers panoramic views of Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. There is a wide range of activities available for scenic flights, helicopter flights, glacier trips and four-wheel-drive tours.

Of all the holiday parks we stayed in, Glentanner Park Centre was perhaps my favourite as the mountain peaks, lakeside and sunrise could be enjoyed right from our doorstep!

Credit: Jo Chung

Credit: Jo Chung

Day 4: Hooker Valley

The Hooker Valley Track is the most popular short walking track within the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. At only 5km in length and gaining only about 100m in height, anyone regardless of age and any level of fitness can do this track.

View of Hooker Valley and Mueller Lake from a lookout point.

On arriving at the car park, there was a sign saying that the Hooker Valley Track was closed at the first swing bridge. Only about the first 20 minutes of the track was still open. It was an oversight on our part for not checking beforehand. Had we done our homework prior, we would have known that the area had been pummelled by extreme weather in March, causing floods and serious damage to one of the swing bridges.

The original plan had been to spend three hours doing the Hooker Valley Track and remain there until after dark to do some night photography. As the track was closed to visitors, we were left with too much time on our hands.

Day 5: Wanaka

Wanaka may not enjoy the same international fame as her sister, Queenstown, but this free-spirited lakeside town is girded by mountain ranges and foothills with Mt. Aspiring National Park nearby.  There are enough nature trails, sporting and outdoor activities here to keep the adrenaline going.

A visit to Wanaka is not complete without paying a visit to That Wanaka Tree. You might think that going to see NZ’s most photographed tree involves a long drive and hike off-the-beaten-path to get to the lakeside, but this is not the case. In fact, the viewpoint is an easy 1.5 km walk from the town centre or you can just drive to the car park at the Wanaka Rotary Playground, cross a small bridge and you’ve arrived!

The short path running parallel to Wanaka Lake.

We put up the night at Wanaka Lakeview Holiday Park. It was so near to Wanaka Lake that we got to visit that lonely tree three times!

Day 6: Queenstown

After checking in at Queenstown Lakeview Holiday Park, we took a scenic ride in the iconic Skyline Gondola which carried us 450 meters above Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu to the top of Bob’s Peak and remained there until after sunset.

View of Queenstown, Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountains from Bob’s Peak.

By the time we got back down, we were famished and headed for the Flame Bar and Grill that’s well-known for its NZ & South African-style meat dishes, steaks and signature spare ribs. Unfortunately, the restaurant was full and we were told to come back at 9pm where our table would be ready. While waiting, we tucked into another NZ favourite – the Instagram-famous Fergburger.

They were so yummy that we had them again for breakfast the next morning!

Arrowtown

It takes a mere 20 minutes to drive from Queenstown to Arrowtown. Once a thriving mining town, many of the buildings along the main street that were built during the days of gold mining have been converted to offices, cafes and shops.

The area around the carpark is quite pretty with tall trees dressed in yellow and orange swaying in the wind. There are also several inviting nature trails to explore here.

Day 7: Moke Lake

Moke Lake is like something out of a Grimm fairy tale – solitary, quiet, mysterious yet uniquely beautiful and magical at the same time.

To get there, you need to drive for about 20 minutes out of Queenstown and work your way down a valley on 8 km of gravel road that cuts across private pasture land in the middle of nowhere.

Throughout the journey, I didn’t see any other vehicle from either direction. However, every turning opened up a view that was unexpected. Finally the mountains gave way to reveal the calm waters of Moke Lake with its changing colours! and mirror-like reflections!  What a priviledge to be in such a breath-taking setting!

The facilities here are very basic. One eco-toilet standing about 50 meters from the car park and that’s about it. There is no power supply or internet connectivity but you can park for as long as you like for free.

Moke Lake can be seen from the car park but in order to walk around it, you need to cross a flat wooden bridge (which occasionally gets submerged underwater especially during high tide) to reach the other side of the lake.

Quietly but quickly, darkness swept through the valley and temperatures dropped to single digits. The twelve of us had dinner together outdoors, exposed to the wind and the blackness of our surroundings. Wearing four layers of warm clothing did not help. I wished I could get back inside the campervan but that would have been unsociable on my part. Time seemed to be passing really slowly when sitting outside in the freezing darkness of the quiet night. I was relieved when 9pm came and everyone retired for the evening because we had to be out again at 1:00am to chase the Milky Way.

Day 8: Nugget Point

The iconic Nugget Point (The Nuggets) is found at the northern end of the Caitlins coast. This steep headland is surrounded by wave-eroded rocks resembling the shape of gold nuggets and has a lighthouse at its tip.

We put up at Hill View Campsite which had only enough parking space for 3 or 4 campervans. The kitchen, toilets and showers were just a few feet from the parking area so it was convenient to walk from one place to another without having to put on a warm jacket.

It is said that sunrise is a must at Nugget Point. We were already at the viewing platform near the Lighthouse from 5:30am onwards, waiting for the sun to peep out from the horizon. But thick clouds got in the way and by the time they cleared, the magical moment was gone.

The rocky beach at the base of Nugget Point.

Day 9: Moeraki Boulders

The Moeraki Boulders is one of NZ’s natural wonders. These 50 or so boulders at Koekohe Beach are perfectly spherical in shape with large cracks in them.

The best time to see the Moeraki Boulders is during low tide when the boulders are exposed. During high tide, only the tops can be seen poking out of the water.

Day 10: Good-bye, New Zealand!

All too quickly, it was time to say farewell to New Zealand. I am thankful that the weather was kind and that everything went smoothly. I wished this road trip could have lasted a bit longer but all good things must come to an end. This is one epic road adventure with a group of awesome people that will remain with me for a long time.

Filmed and recorded by Raymond Choong, a campermate during this road trip, the footage below allows a sneak peek into the places we visited during this NZ road trip from 29 April to 9 May 2019.